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Aft Magazine Section Model - 1:32 Scale

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Tim C

Mon May 13 2013, 11:42pm

Registered Member #4126

Joined: Fri Feb 15 2013, 05:19am
Posts: 1113

Jeff
Thanks for sharing that. It looks great.
Now need to work on you to,, please share these plans??

Later Tim

[ Edited Wed Jan 29 2014, 03:20am ]

teleman

Tue May 14 2013, 04:57am

Registered Member #1925

Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32am
Posts: 1394

Hey Thanks Jeff,
i have been pretty successful with making basswood look like ebony, walnut, golden oak , and yes peacon. But i did not know about cutting those 2 stains to make it look like boxwood. Like you I love those exotic woods but man they are pricey...............Thanks again buddy.

jstaudt

Tue May 14 2013, 07:29am

Registered Member #4

Joined: Fri Jun 26 2009, 12:40am
Posts: 90

I'm glad this was helpful guys.

One thing I failed to mention....While I used the golden pecan for my model, I'd stick to the golden oak for the look of boxwood. Like you mentioned Mario, you can use different stains to achieve the look of various woods.

For me personally, I like to create something that has a nice contrast between the various components, and not worry too much about matching a particular wood type. After all, in reality most of the construction of the real ship would have been made of good old oak anyway.

Jeff

[ Edited Tue May 14 2013, 07:34am ]

Mick Wilkins

Tue May 14 2013, 02:24pm

Registered Member #597

Joined: Sat Jan 02 2010, 08:28pm
Posts: 55

Hi! I am just wondering if anyone has suggested acid fuming boxwood to give it the old colour much like your staining,

to do this you would need a cabinet withe shelves in and a glass dish for the acid the basic idea is to let the boxwood be exposed to the fumes it can be stopped at any stage at whatever shade from a light ginger to a dark brown it has to be neutralized to finish! but at present I cant remember what I used I will google it and see if I can find out,

mick

Mick Wilkins

Tue May 14 2013, 02:36pm

Registered Member #597

Joined: Sat Jan 02 2010, 08:28pm
Posts: 55

PS. anyone considering acid fuming

BE VERY CAREFUL CONCENTRATED NITRIC ACID IS DANGEROUS STUFF ,

IF USING ACID USING A SHALLOW GLASS DISH AS IT WILL ALLOW MAXIMUM FUMES, YOU CAN ADD AN IRON NAIL BUT THIS MUST BE DOME IN A FUME CABINET OR OUTSIDE AS THE BROWN FUMES GIVEN OFF ARE POISON,

acid fuming is much better than stain for boxwood as it gives a beautiful even staining and has been used for boxwood instruments for hundreds of years, I have used it extensively and have survived OK so remember to TAKE CARE,

AS FAR AS NEUTRALIZING IT NOTHING NEED BE DONE OTHER THAN A GOOD WETTING OF LINSEED OIL,

jstaudt

Tue May 14 2013, 03:02pm

Registered Member #4

Joined: Fri Jun 26 2009, 12:40am
Posts: 90

Hi Mick,

I haven't heard of using this technique before. It sounds a lot like the ammonia fuming process used to darken oak for arts & crafts style furniture.

I agree with you - Never do this anywhere other than outdoors or in a cabinet in a well ventilated area like a garage. NASTY STUFF....

Jeff

[ Edited Tue May 14 2013, 03:05pm ]

teleman

Tue May 14 2013, 05:16pm

Registered Member #1925

Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32am
Posts: 1394

Hmmm! Acid fumming and Amonia fumming. I have some great working sinuses and i'm keepin them. I'm stickin with my sanding sealer technic and playing around with stains.....

jstaudt

Sat May 18 2013, 09:42am

Registered Member #4

Joined: Fri Jun 26 2009, 12:40am
Posts: 90

LIGHT ROOM

On some ships the magazine light room may not have been an actual room at all, and simply a small cupboard containing a lantern. Depending on it's location the light room would have been wrapped around various components such as masts, breasthooks, etc. Access to this area would have been by door, passageway, or scuttle, and always separate from the entry into the filling and powder rooms. On my model the light room will have an entrance from the rear.

The first step is the construction of the walls. Keeping with the overall look of the model, I've left the starboard side wall planking off for ease of viewing.

Lantern Cupboard

The forward portion of the room is partitioned off by a wall containing the cupboard for the lantern. The interior would have been lead and tin lined to act as an additional barrier against the risk of fire. The door and wall have a series of ventilation holes and tube at the top to expel heat created from the candles. The forward side of the cupboard contains a light sash that I made in the same manner as the previous one in the bulkhead.

Two reflective panels, lined with tin, were used to maximize the amount of light entering into the filling room. To simulate the look of tin I followed the method described in David Antscherl's book “The Fully Framed Model, HMN SWAN CLASS SLOOPS 1767-1780 Volume I” and used the dull side of a piece of aluminum foil.

Since the light room was a work area I added a bench and rack to hold the various tools and supplies that one might find in use here. I''ll add some additional items later as the build nears completion.