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HMS VICTORY 1:48 POF Scratch build Downunder |
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TasOak |
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![]() Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 23 | Once again, sorry about the orientation, I will have to learn a bit more about computers I guess.I started with a single sided stern mould to get the lines correct, but found it was pushing itself off vertical, so I duplicated the mould to double sided and found a lot more wood had to be removed, and the result was a lot better especially with the compound curves, cleared the mind as well, less doubts. As can be seen, transom beams 1-4 finished up concave instead of convex and there will be a lot less bending of planks up to transom beam 11, I could not see any shipyard trying to bend 4 to 5 inch planks very far, let alone the ship’s carpenter if necessary. The beak head looks like testing me, but pics from below seem to indicate the rails are two dimensional rather than 3D, but still a challenge. I may end up buying some of the carved work including figurehead, 3D printed ones now available look very tempting, especially considering my lack of carving skills. I have taken the step of combining cant timber’s 137 and 138 as McKay’s plans seem a bit unusual there with 3 filling frames terminating under the gunport and the gunport cut through half of the main frame and at an odd spacing. Did he draw his plans before building? Or did he scan his model to create the final plan? Or was it from one of his other sources? Never mind that’s now done my way. 😁 💡The sanding disc may get a run with tapering the cant frames, with or without mitre help | ||
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jacknastyface2 |
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![]() Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 664 | Glen wrote: One question, were the checkerboard floors original? I certainly hope not, they look out of place to me. Glen, short answer, I don't know, but if I remember correctly I read somewhere that a canvas checkerboard floor covering was laid down in the captains' cabin. Would make sense if it was at time of battle. Keith. | ||
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TasOak |
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![]() Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 23 | Lawrence, thank you for the sanding disc suggestion 😃 the setup is less than ideal but it does a brilliant job in seconds instead of an hour, tapering of cant frames is now much easier. The other plus(?) is the extra exercise up and down the stairs to the garage, Jeanette would not let me put it in the house 😳 | ||
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TasOak |
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![]() Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 23 | Well, my eyes, my fingers and my 3D mould all failed me, I missed the subtle change of shape just for’d of the stern that develops into the main belly of the hold. Looks like there will be a few “little shipwrights” added to a couple of cant frames in order to regain the correct lines. 😳 I think the 3D mould would be better with a few more strips to fill the gaps between. | ||
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Lawrence |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #4421 Joined: Sat May 03 2014, 01:33pmPosts: 261 | TasOak wrote ... Lawrence, thank you for the sanding disc suggestion 😃 the setup is less than ideal but it does a brilliant job in seconds instead of an hour, tapering of cant frames is now much easier. The other plus(?) is the extra exercise up and down the stairs to the garage, Jeanette would not let me put it in the house 😳 Hello Glen, Yes the disk sander can and will save you a lot of time and also do a great job at the same time. You say that your miter gauge is a bit sloppy, you can glue pices of ABS plastics or the likes to one side of the gives to tighten it up and make it run more true. I did that with mine, good luck. Regards Lawrence [ Edited Fri Feb 26 2021, 01:43am ] | ||
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TasOak |
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![]() Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 23 | Thank you again, Lawrence, yes I will try that, but at the moment, I am contending with having to sculpt the cant frame to deadwood joints as I was a bit too generous with the bearding line on the deadwood, and left myself with a shoulder in the joint face. Oh well, there are no time limits, just as well I am enjoying the challenge. | ||
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