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| HMS VICTORY 1:48 POF Scratch build Downunder | ||
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| Author | Post | ||
| TasOak |
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 Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | Once again, sorry about the orientation, I will have to learn a bit more about computers I guess.I started with a single sided stern mould to get the lines correct, but found it was pushing itself off vertical, so I duplicated the mould to double sided and found a lot more wood had to be removed, and the result was a lot better especially with the compound curves, cleared the mind as well, less doubts. As can be seen, transom beams 1-4 finished up concave instead of convex and there will be a lot less bending of planks up to transom beam 11, I could not see any shipyard trying to bend 4 to 5 inch planks very far, let alone the ship’s carpenter if necessary. The beak head looks like testing me, but pics from below seem to indicate the rails are two dimensional rather than 3D, but still a challenge. I may end up buying some of the carved work including figurehead, 3D printed ones now available look very tempting, especially considering my lack of carving skills. I have taken the step of combining cant timber’s 137 and 138 as McKay’s plans seem a bit unusual there with 3 filling frames terminating under the gunport and the gunport cut through half of the main frame and at an odd spacing. Did he draw his plans before building? Or did he scan his model to create the final plan? Or was it from one of his other sources? Never mind that’s now done my way. 😁 💡The sanding disc may get a run with tapering the cant frames, with or without mitre help | ||
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| jacknastyface2 |
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 Registered Member #5239 Joined: Sat Apr 21 2018, 05:29pmPosts: 823 | Glen wrote: One question, were the checkerboard floors original? I certainly hope not, they look out of place to me. Glen, short answer, I don't know, but if I remember correctly I read somewhere that a canvas checkerboard floor covering was laid down in the captains' cabin. Would make sense if it was at time of battle. Keith. | ||
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| TasOak |
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| Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | Lawrence, thank you for the sanding disc suggestion 😃 the setup is less than ideal but it does a brilliant job in seconds instead of an hour, tapering of cant frames is now much easier. The other plus(?) is the extra exercise up and down the stairs to the garage, Jeanette would not let me put it in the house 😳 | ||
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| TasOak |
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| Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | Well, my eyes, my fingers and my 3D mould all failed me, I missed the subtle change of shape just for’d of the stern that develops into the main belly of the hold. Looks like there will be a few “little shipwrights” added to a couple of cant frames in order to regain the correct lines. 😳 I think the 3D mould would be better with a few more strips to fill the gaps between. | ||
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| Lawrence |
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 Registered Member #4421 Joined: Sat May 03 2014, 01:33pmPosts: 584 | TasOak wrote ... Lawrence, thank you for the sanding disc suggestion 😃 the setup is less than ideal but it does a brilliant job in seconds instead of an hour, tapering of cant frames is now much easier. The other plus(?) is the extra exercise up and down the stairs to the garage, Jeanette would not let me put it in the house 😳 Hello Glen, Yes the disk sander can and will save you a lot of time and also do a great job at the same time. You say that your miter gauge is a bit sloppy, you can glue pices of ABS plastics or the likes to one side of the gives to tighten it up and make it run more true. I did that with mine, good luck. Regards Lawrence [ Edited Fri Feb 26 2021, 01:43am ] | ||
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| TasOak |
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| Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | Thank you again, Lawrence, yes I will try that, but at the moment, I am contending with having to sculpt the cant frame to deadwood joints as I was a bit too generous with the bearding line on the deadwood, and left myself with a shoulder in the joint face. Oh well, there are no time limits, just as well I am enjoying the challenge. | ||
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| Baggywrinkle |
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  Registered Member #5759 Joined: Sat Sep 19 2020, 03:36pmPosts: 544 | We've all had to 'adjust' out frames/bulkheads and other timbers to overcome errors made in the dockyard Glen  I'll bet even the masters get it slightly wrong at times cheers Pat | ||
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| TasOak |
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| Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | Thanks Pat, yes I guess that’s how they became known as “little shipwrights”, it all depends on being in a position to remove and replace a faulty piece without damaging more around it in the process...or starting over😵. I’m prepared to accept a few fillers as there must have been plenty back in 1765, I just wonder how many are in the same places due to the same complex shaping problems experienced without 3D scanning, printing and CNC. I certainly don’t lose sleep over it, | ||
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| TasOak |
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| Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | The timber works continue, I have been spending some considerable time fairing the aft framework since closing in the complex shapes around the aft cant frames. There is still a good deal of corrective surgery to be completed as my go-no go mould only gives me maximum size, not minimum, and I am finding out the hard way. I am not using filler putties at all, but adding thin battens frame by frame as necessary. Having used plans for the transom frames from McKays drawings, I have found that they vary from Bugler’s Sheer drawing (traced from Admiralty plans)in the lower deck position. So now I have had to drop the gunport sills accordingly…more little shipwrights! Thin laminations to cover the dovetails look ok without changing the port size. Now working forward again at #7 main timbers.  | ||
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| TasOak |
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| Registered Member #5793 Joined: Wed Feb 17 2021, 03:53amPosts: 36 | Oh dear, sorry about that, out of practice🙃 | ||
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