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RMS Titanic 1:144 |
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Author | Post | ||
Gene Bodnar |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Arthur, Yes, you are correct. No. 4 funnel (the sternmost funnel) was there purely for aesthetic purposes. A ventilator in the second class smoking room was vented through this funnel, but it certainly didn't require a funnel of this size; a much smaller cowl vent could have served that purpose. Gene | ||
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Gene Bodnar |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Funnel No. 1 has been completed.![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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twintrow |
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![]() Registered Member #121 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 04:41amPosts: 429 | Beautiful !!! Tom | ||
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aew |
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Arthur![]() ![]() ![]() Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 3019 | As Tom said, beautiful job. I had to fit stays on the funnel of my model of Gulnara, those had turnbuckles to tension them. I'm surprised to see the blocks on Titanic, or are those flag lines rather than stays? | ||
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Gene Bodnar |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Arthur, According to a highly detailed rigging plan of the Titanic found on the Titanic Research and Modeling Association, those lines on each side of the top of each funnel are called "painter lines." They're supposed to be hemp rope drawn through iron single blocks. Mine are beeswaxed #30 DMC ecru cotton thread drawn through 3/32" apple wood blocks painted black. I have no idea what their function is. (Perhaps to carry some sort of rig for painting the funnels???) I'm surprised that the Titanic uses so many single and double blocks, both iron and wood varieties. There's a whole lot of rigging yet to be done. Gene | ||
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Gene Bodnar |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | All four funnels have been finished, including their rigging. he 30' lifeboats are in their initial stage of development. Gene ![]() ![]() | ||
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aew |
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Arthur![]() ![]() ![]() Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 3019 | Gene: I've heard 'painter' used for the line to tie up a small boat but I don't think you'd want to tie up Titanic by its funnels! ![]() Those funnels look superb. I'm amazed at the level of detail you've achieved in a such relatively short time. | ||
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Gene Bodnar |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Arthur, That "short time" is actually about 6-7 hours per day lately. Gene | ||
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aew |
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Arthur![]() ![]() ![]() Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 3019 | I did say relatively! ![]() You started it a month after I started on Vanguard. I'm still working on the hull; I've got a couple of decks still to go and not a gun to be seen yet. Rigging is probably next year's task. | ||
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Gene Bodnar |
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![]() ![]() Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Fourteen of the lifeboats and their respective rigging has been completed. The following steps are involved in constructing the liftboats: 1. Trace the top view pattern onto 1/2"-thick basswood. Cut out the pattern on a jigsaw. 2. Using a disk sander, sand the top of the boat at the shown angle on both sides. This is done carefully by eye. Then sand the angle of the bow and stern on the same disk sander, which is also done by eye. 3. Complete the shape of the lifeboat with a drum sander chucked in a Dremel. This is done by eye, with both sides made symmetrical. 3. Sand the boat smooth with a sanding stick. 4. Cut strips of 1/32" basswood to make the keel. Using CA glue one piece at the bottom of the boat, centering it. Then glue a shorter piece at the bow, and a similar piece at the stern. Let dry. 5. Fill in any tiny gaps in the keel with wood putty, sanding it smooth after it dries. 6. Apply a coat of sanding sealer. After it dries, sand with a fine sanding stick. Then apply a coat of white paint to the entire boat, except for the top, which is painted gray to suggest a canvas cover. 7. Using a brown pencil, mark out and draw the rope scallops onto the sides of the top edge of the lifeboat. 8. Cut as 1/32" strip of card for the wale on both sides of the boat. Paint the strips black. Glue in place onto the top edges of both sides. 9. Make two chocks for the lifeboat by cutting them from 1/32" basswood. Paint them white. 10. Glue the boat in place on the chocks. Then glue the entire assembly onto the boat deck. The davits, although they look complicated to make, consist of a base cut from card and pieces of 22-gauge black wire bent to shape and glued onto the base with CA glue. Of course, on this scale it is impossible to make the 4 triple blocks required for each pair of davits. On the other hand, to omit them wouldn't look good. Therefore, the rigging must be somehow suggested. I made a small jig that holds two 1/32" bamboo dowels temporarily in place at the distance required for the space between the davit and the boat. Applying a dab of Elmer's Carpenter's Glue to each dowel, I wrapped #50 DMC cotton thread, well beeswaxed, around both dowels 3 times, leaving a short tail at the top to attach to the davit, and a long tail at the bottom to attach to the fall bitts already secured to the boat deck. Glue the lower block to the lifeboat with CA glue, and let this dry thoroughly. Now, secure the short tail to the outermost edge of the davit with CA glue, attaching a small clothespin to the tail, hanging it down to hold the block in place. Let this dry thoroughly. Finally, secure the long tail to the fall bitts, and apply a bit of glue. Snip off all excess threads with fine-pointed scissors. This may not be perfectly taut, but at least it looks better than no tackle at all. ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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