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| catopower |
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 Registered Member #247 Joined: Tue Aug 25 2009, 01:57amPosts: 211 | Hi Norman, The sails at this time were likely attached to the yards by tying the robands at the head of the sail to an iron rod jackstay on the top (slightly forward) side of the yard. On the spanker or driver, the sail would have an outhaul line attached (I think it's at the clew cringle) which runs through a sheave in the end of the boom, which I think usually is stropped to a tackle on the boom itself. The fall of that tackle then belays to a cleat on the boom, or a pin near the boom jaws. At the head of the sail, , the robands I think just ties directly to the gaff. Then, I've forgotten my sail terms, but it's the leading edge of the sail that is attached to hoops on the mizzen mast or a line is simply laced around the mizzen mast. I usually have to look these things up myself. Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld shows most details for different periods in history. I keep my copy nearby for looking up most things. Good luck with your model. It's looking great. And, I like your crew! Clare | ||
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| Norman |
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 Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | Thank you Clare, now I have got a starting point. It is a shame that I did not ask this question a lot sooner. All of the yards are attached to the masts with all the rigging. Mounting the jackstays is going to be tricky. Norman | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | The conversation on scratch building has been interesting as I had a bit of a problem recently. I thought that I could never make the ships wheel as it was too fiddly so I bought a ready made one. Unfortunately it stood out like a sore thumb as it was boxwood and too precise compared to the rest of the model, I thought that it looked like a chess piece!. Also the sizes available did not suit my model. So I decided that I would have a go myself and am not displeased with the result. The rim is the same timber that I used for the rest of the ship (Meranti)and the spokes are bamboo. Even if it is not perfect it matches the rest of the build. I know my limitations and did not attempt to turn the handles. Norman | ||
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| Michael Mott |
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 Registered Member #4083 Joined: Wed Nov 21 2012, 12:46amPosts: 121 | A good choice Norman. | ||
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| Tim C |
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  Registered Member #4126 Joined: Fri Feb 15 2013, 05:19amPosts: 1113 | Good choice and well done. Later 42rocker | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | Thank you Michael and 42rocker | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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 Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Norman, Looks good. You are only limited by your imagination, not your skills -- your skills get better with practice. Next time, try making the handles by chucking a small wood dowel in your electric drill. Turn it on and use mini files to shape the handles. You'd be surprised at what you'll achieve. Gene | ||
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| catopower |
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| Registered Member #247 Joined: Tue Aug 25 2009, 01:57amPosts: 211 | Norman wrote ... ... I thought that it looked like a chess piece! Yes, "Mr. Bunsen, steer a new course for King's Bishop Three... King's Bishop Three, Aye, Sir!" All joking aside though, the new wheel looks great, Norman. Clare | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | Gene, I didn't attempt it as my 3 jaw chuck will not hold 2mm dia., it did not occur to me to use a drill chuck instead. Next time! Clare, if I get short of cash I could always "pawn" the ship. Norman | ||
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| catopower |
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| Registered Member #247 Joined: Tue Aug 25 2009, 01:57amPosts: 211 | Norman wrote ... Clare, if I get short of cash I could always "pawn" the ship. Doh!!! [ Edited Thu Mar 07 2013, 01:12am ] | ||
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