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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| aew |
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Arthur   Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 3037 | I agree with Gene, it's looking good. I know it's only a small detail, but I really like that 5 barred door. The hinges are very realistic. If you're intending to sail this for a video, have you given any thought to ballasting it? You might need to hang a substantial weight underneath it on a temporary basis. Now would be a good time to consider some means of attaching this; possibly some nuts or threaded brackets attached to the bulkheads? You could put the whole thing in a large plastic bag (a bin liner?) and see how it floats at this stage. | ||
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| Norman |
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 Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | The hinges are just drawn on with a pencil. I was thinking of ballasting with lead weights inside, it will be possible to get them in through the cargo hatch. External ballast would be more effective though. I had thought about fitting captive nuts in the false keel but that may put too much load on it when it is heeled over. That's a good idea putting it in a bin bag to test flotation. | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | I have now fitted the stanchions, it was very easy cutting the spaces in the waterways with the frames to guide the saw. The handrails are pegged to the stanchions with cocktail sticks. the original had mortise and tenon joints so that is pretty close! I've planked around the poop deck and have bought some microscope slides to use for glazing the windows. Today I fitted two bulwark planks, I boiled the wood in my kettle to enable it to curve. I can now approach the rest of the planking with more confidence, I was quite nervous of it but I think that I will be able to do it successfully    | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | I have now planked the main deck. The timber that I used is a piece of the original ship. It is actually part of a deck beam that was rescued when the bow section collapsed a coulple of years ago. So I have a little bit of history built into my version of the Jhelum. | ||
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| aew |
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| Arthur Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 3037 | Nice job! Do you know what the wood is? It looks a bit like teak. | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | The wood was discoloured from years of weathering and it penetrated well below the surface but the part of the timber that was near to the centre looked like mahogany. Where I have cut and planed it is much lighter but I expect that it will darken with exposure to the light. | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | I'm back after a bit of a gap. I moved house and now have a properly set up workshop instead of working on my dining table. It'll be interesting to see if the improved work facilities help with an improvement in my work. Over the last couple of days I have planked the bottom and a question has come to mind. I am aware that in order to get the planks to lay flat on the frames it is necessary to cut them on a curve. This would be very wasteful as regards to the wood. How did they get around this on full size ships? I am cutting my planks 3mm thich from 6mm timber and laying them straight. This gives the "clinker" like appearance that can be seen in the photos. My planks are over scale thickness so I will be able to sand and scrape then smooth. Just before I moved house I tried some rope making and was very pleased with the results. Where can I find information on the thicknesses of the ropes that were typically used?  | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | Here are my efforts at rope making. The six strand rope is 3.2mm dia and the three strand is 1.8mm dia. Would these be suitable for the Jhelum at 1/32nd. scale? | ||
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| trippwj |
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 Registered Member #2648 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:14pmPosts: 264 | This is a fantastic piece of workmanship! There are several sources for information on the diameter of the rigging. In print, Biddlecombe's "The Art of Rigging" has numerous tables listing the "normal" rigging diameter for various tonnage and types of vessels. There are also some on-line books that may give a relevant table of dimensions. Biddlecombe, for example, gives a dimension of 5 inches for the backstay on a 200 ton brig. | ||
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| Norman |
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| Registered Member #1932 Joined: Fri Dec 02 2011, 10:02pmPosts: 170 | Wayne, thank you for your kind comments and for the leads on where to look for rigging sizes. I have Lennarth Petersson's book but that has no sizes. | ||
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