| Model Ship Builder :: Forums :: Build Logs :: POB Build Logs |
|
<< Previous thread | Next thread >> |
| Scotland Corel kit #SM 56 (build 2013) | ||
| Go to page 1 2 3 | |
|
Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk
|
| Author | Post | ||
| Charles |
| ||
  Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | Scotland Corel kit #SM 56 (build 2013) The Scotland, a ship dating back to the end of the eighteenth century, belong to the category of the Baltic Ketch-Yachts and was chiefly used for the transport of goods and passengers, also on rivers and the most important lakes. While being traditionally a “ Work Boat “, so-called because it was mainly used for commercial purposes the Scotland can be distinguished from the multitude of different kinds of relatively small boat, that is to say, those between 50 and 60 feet long, by its impressive sails and the pleasing and soft lines of the hull. Even Chapman himself, in a note dated 1775, mentioned this type of ship because of the purposes for which it was used, but he called it “Galeas, a Baltik Vessel”. I have to said that when I open the box I was impress of the 3 other Corel kit that I have that one is the best one as I have see up to now from Corell. Impeccable packing a clear plastic tray separate the different parts the keel is straight and all the wood are in a small bag I did not see any damage on part or something wrong. All the metal decoration part are made in a black metal that will be very easy to paint with good result. The kit came with a nice stand that when prepare and paint will be gorgeous. The booklet instruction is well made (at least for me) each page got the step on one page and drawing on the other side, a scale drawing complete the documentation. That kit was build as a gift for one of my close cousin    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | Construction begin with the frame My frame was strait and all the parts in good condition Not a lot to said as everything when smooth an easy. Only a bit of sanding to have the bulkhead adjust to be level to the main frame but beside that nothing. I used carpenter glue for that step as that type of glue give me time to place and adjust before it set. As you see in the photo the drawing are self explanatory. All the part are numbered so easy to identified The keel was install and a small piece at the stern again a bit of sanding was necessary to have the part fit nicely. Personally I prefer to have to sand a bit of material, then found that the piece are to short.    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | The second step is to install the deck. To make certain that the deck is place properly the demand that small block of 2x2mm are install with precision at certain place. To do that we have to trace on a sheet of paper the form of the deck and copy the exact position of each bulkhead. To do that they supplied a drawing at the end of the booklet, and a compensation of 1.5mm as to be applied to it. After that it is just a matter to glue the deck to the frame is just to show that I ad some carpenter glue on the junction to give more strength to      | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | Step 3 the pose of the filler block and the sanding of the bulkhead. Notting really to said it is a straight forward work that went fast and easy the plywood used is light and easy to sand. At this point we install small wood piece that will be use later when the stand will be install photo 3-5 I did not use the wood of the kit I put some scrap wood from my waist box as I did not see the need of making cut in a nice piece of wood for those 4 small piece ant they will be inside the hull    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | The installation of the fore castle and quarter deck. This will be follow by the planking of the deck. 3 long piece of wood are install to be the support to the Quarter deck and 2 big half will made the floor of the fore castle Well in the instruction they said to be careful to avoid the deck to twist when the thick piece are install at the fore castle. They where right as you can see I got a very nasty twist. I think that the cause of that is the fact that the deck got a camber. At this stage of the building it is easy to correct so first I cut 4 block of wood of around 1”x1”x11/4” I then use my ship holding frame and 2 clamp I rectified the frame that was follow by gluing the 4 block under the deck to the frame ant the bulkhead 4-6. And as you can see the problem is now corrected. The planking of the deck they supplied 20 strip of Tanganica wood of 0.6x3mm they suggest a 50/50 pattern with a length of 70mm that I follow. First I made myself a small simple jig using a block of wood, I first made a line put a nail at one end made 2 perpendicular line at the dimension requested I got my jig show the fore castle done and the line on the deck that will be used The deck is now planked the tree nail where add also part of the stern was done at this step Here I went ahead and did already something that is suppose to be done at step5 on the front of the quarter deck you can see the piece of plywood that is use as a wall at step 5 I am suppose to plank it with the same type of wood so I did it now as it is easier to do now. First small modification to the build if you look you will see a small elevation at the fore castle no where in the instruction they mention to plank it so after making certain that I have sufficient wood to do what have to be done at step 5 I add a small plank     | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | The planking of the deck they supplied 20 strip of Tanganica wood of 0.6x3mm they suggest a 50/50 pattern with a length of 70mm that I follow. First I made myself a small simple jig using a block of wood, I first made a line put a nail at one end made 2 perpendicular line at the dimension requested I got my jig show the fore castle done and the line on the deck that will be used The deck is now planked the tree nail where add also part of the stern was done at this step Here I went ahead and did already something that is suppose to be done at step5 on the front of the quarter deck you can see the piece of plywood that is use as a wall at step 5 I am suppose to plank it with the same type of wood so I did it now as it is easier to do now. First small modification to the build if you look you will see a small elevation at the fore castle no where in the instruction they mention to plank it so after making certain that I have sufficient wood to do what have to be done at step 5 I add a small plank     | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | First I want to thanks Jean Pierre again as he spot a mistake that I made when sanding the bow. So correction done I was able to start the planking And show different step in the planking. When I look I realize that I there was a possibility that I might be in trouble and be short of wood to plank the hull. So I went in economy mode show the hull complete and as you can see beside the hull not a lots was left. That is the first time that I made a build and arrive so tight in wood for the hull. the hull after the sanding, the hull now have the proper shape but still need work. show the hull finish and ready to received the second planking .      | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | Stage 6 The second layer of the hull planking, the installation of the gunwales and the rudder the complete hull finish it was not a problem at all it was easy to do and went very well as for the first planking not a lot spare plank next show where I made my second modificationt as you can the edge of the bow is not cover so even when paint the layer of plank and plywood will be apparent so I decide to cover it with the few spare left This is a nice surprise, Corel supplied Beech wood to make the handrail, and it was fantastic as you can see it is easy to bend and form it by hand and it keep is form the rail install. The next few picture show how the rudder is build from 3x3 All the parts before assembly The parts assembled but not form The rudder is complete ready to be install The rudder install and the ship ready for the next stage        | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | Stage 7 First thing that I did is to prepare the stand by first cleaning the stand and gluing the name plate a base coat of flat black then I did a very light copper paint on the detail, The name pate was paint a light gold just enough to be visible but not shiny to be point of be the focus point of the model. Next using a spray can of flat white and my masking tape 8-4 I paint the hull. I then made myself a rig to trace the water line Next was the paint of the 2 black line follow by the yellow one The stern The kit do not supplied glass to fill the window so what I did is using some 1mm clear Plexiglas that I have and just cut them to fill the window. I then paint the inside of the window clear blue using Tamiya paint X23 and finish the painting and then glue the stern in place I did the same with the 2 mall side window That step is now complete a light coat of varnish and I am satisfied of the result      | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Charles |
| ||
| Registered Member #1923 Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pmPosts: 797 | Ok step 8 is the installation of the deadeye, chain plate, bits and ring bolt. Notting really to said about that stage, measuring where the part go drill a 1.5mm hole and glue the part in place.    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Go to page 1 2 3 | |
Powered by e107 Forum System