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William Carson 1846 barque (1:48)

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ToddM

Wed Feb 20 2019, 05:29pm

Registered Member #4538

Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pm
Posts: 244

When I started to get ready to build the main deck I realized that I had forgotten to notch out the frames to represent the stanchions that support the main rail. Stanchions are normally added to the frames but I thought it would be easier just to build the frames to the rail height and then notch them (every second one) to represent the stanchions. I would be correct IF I would remember to do this before setting the frames onto the keel as this could be done easily (and more accurate) on the band saw. I also forgot to do this on my first build the "Eagle". Now I have to do this with a hand razor saw. This is tedious and it is difficult to maintain a straight line.

[ Edited Wed Feb 20 2019, 05:30pm ]

ToddM

Wed Feb 20 2019, 06:02pm

Registered Member #4538

Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pm
Posts: 244

With the stanchions done I started the main deck. First I cut out the hanging knees and because the shelve was a nice rectangular shape I notched the knees instead of the shelves for placement. Incidentally I use cyanoacrylate glue for most of my gluing needs. I have read that this is not a good idea but I have not had any problems and it is just much faster than trying to clamp everything. I use titebond II on the frames.

ToddM

Wed Feb 20 2019, 06:08pm

Registered Member #4538

Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pm
Posts: 244

On the "Eagle" I placed a lodging knee on each side of the main beams but this was done before placing each beam and as the knees from one beam to the next did not touch each other I could play with the spacing. On this build each knee is notched to merge with the adjacent knee and beam. This presented a challenge as each beam needed to be placed on a hanging knee and each hanging knee had to be placed on a frame. I basically had to measure and redraw each beam and lodging knee as I proceeded from stern to bow. I won't get into it but this was a lot of work especially when working in the areas of the openings for the holds.

ToddM

Wed Feb 20 2019, 06:13pm

Registered Member #4538

Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pm
Posts: 244

just some more pictures showing some of the details.

ToddM

Wed Feb 20 2019, 06:31pm

Registered Member #4538

Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pm
Posts: 244

I should also mention that I did not build a round-up into the decks. I made this decision in a moment of laziness. I had made up 2 or 3 of the first beams with a round up and actually glued one into place upside-down. I thought if I cant't tell the difference then.... I think this was a mistake looking back but I did save some time. Why am I trying to save time. Oh well.

Todd

Tim C

Wed Feb 20 2019, 10:55pm

Registered Member #4126

Joined: Fri Feb 15 2013, 05:19am
Posts: 1117

Looking real Good. Thanks for sharing these pics with us.

Later Tim

Charles

Thu Feb 21 2019, 04:07am

Registered Member #1923

Joined: Mon Nov 28 2011, 06:07pm
Posts: 863

That is real craftsmanship
Superb real superb

ToddM

Wed Feb 19 2020, 02:49pm

Registered Member #4538

Joined: Wed Dec 10 2014, 05:47pm
Posts: 244

It has been about a year since I last gave an update on the Wm. Carson. All I have done really is the outside planking.
Except for the very straight pieces (planks) which would have very little or no transverse or torsional stress I used tape tracing to determine the shape of each plank. This went along quite well until I reached the point on the stern where the side planking had to meet the underside of the sterns planking

I added and removed a number of planks (see the glue on the frames) until I figured out that the plank’s inside edge had to transfer from the inside to the outside of the above previously laid plank.

I accomplished this tight torsional curve using a (hair) curling iron. I use different sized iron to introduce the curves necessary to be able to lay the plank down without introducing stress. This also make it very easy to hold the plank in place while the glue dries. I usually use superglue with an accelerator and no clamps. This has worked well for me.

After adding a few more planks, I then sanded the edges into a nice curve.

The planking at the bow can also be challenging (for me) and again the tape tracing method was used so as not to introduce stress and to prevent having the ends of the planks curve sharply upwards. I also introduce a flair at the end of the planks closest to the bow to control this common sharp curve at the bow.

I decided to just plank down to the waterline as I did on the Eagle. After sanding I wetted the outside with paint thinner to get some nice pics of the final planking.

Just for interest I took some pics showing the William Carson next to the Eagle for comparison. This really shows how shallow and wide the Great Lakes vessel Eagle was compared to the ocean going Wm. Carson.