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Sirene - 1775 French Frigate Corel kit 1:75 scale

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Roadking

Wed Dec 14 2016, 10:48pm

Registered Member #4869

Joined: Mon Dec 12 2016, 11:40pm
Posts: 15

I wouldn't mind at all. I'd appreciate the guidance. I'm here to learn.

With that said, I may not always take the advice but certainly would like to know what I'm doing wrong and how I can improve. This is my first project and I'm not expecting museum quality. Looking at some of the other logs I know I may never be able to do the magnificent work some others are capable of. But I'll do my best and have fun. Not only that, when I show my friends who know less than me they'll think it great even with all the mistakes.

Feel free to critique. I won't get offended and will appreciate it.

Thank you for taking the time to help me.

daves

Thu Dec 15 2016, 02:53pm

Registered Member #105

Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pm
Posts: 2624

Looking at some of the other logs I know I may never be able to do the magnificent work some others are capable of.

you would be surprised what you can accomplish with a little help

But I'll do my best and have fun. Not only that, when I show my friends who know less than me they'll think it great even with all the mistakes.

this is very true most people don't know the difference between a garboard plank and a deck plank. But anyone can look at a shape and see a bump or dent does not belong there. The idea behind the double planked bulkhead hull is to produce a foundation for the final planking, so that shape should be free of kinks, bumps and dents the hull from bow to stern should be a graceful flowing shape. Looking at the photo the area pointed to by the red arrow looks like a dent, now it could be just a shadow or angle of the photo.

The shape should flow from blue dot to blue dot.

bows are difficult to shape because the shape goes from convex to concave in areas. The way bows are done in POB models is to fill in the area with bow blocks then sand and shape the bow.
There are two way to proceed from here one is to use wood filler and coat the bow then sand it. another method is to start at the second bulkhead and cut out the planking between the bulkheads and fill it in with a soft wood. You can go with a third filler block which will give you a smoother transition from the bow to the side of the hull.

when I shape a bow I will use a pad of sandpaper and by hand I can feel if there are high or low areas.

[ Edited Thu Dec 15 2016, 02:55pm ]

daves

Thu Dec 15 2016, 03:49pm

Registered Member #105

Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pm
Posts: 2624

at the stern the last bulkhead seems to be giving you a problem. That crease by the red arrows will show in the final planking unless it is taken care of here. The blue area is always a difficult area of a hull because it is where the shape goes from convex at midship and it begins to tuck in to a concave shape.

you can see it in this hull, there is a shadow line and this is the location in the hull where it changes shape. The circles are the exact location where the hull changes to convex. The trick is making a smooth transition in these areas.

the way the stern is shaped is the same as the bow with blocks. So you can shape the hull in this area. The red plank is used to test the run. you can see where the red ends the plank is not touching the bulkhead, so you have to keep sanding the block until the plank has a smooth run or you end up with a kink.

daves

Thu Dec 15 2016, 03:52pm

Registered Member #105

Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pm
Posts: 2624

here is a great example of shaping the hull

the core is nothing more than the foundation for your final planking so whatever you do here will make or break a nice planking job.

http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?12055.10

Roadking

Thu Dec 15 2016, 10:55pm

Registered Member #4869

Joined: Mon Dec 12 2016, 11:40pm
Posts: 15

That is a great help Dave. I see what you are getting at and I think I can get things back on track with the information that you have provided. Awesome advice and much appreciated.

I will be out of town for a few days but when i return I will get working on shaping the hull as you suggest. I'll post some update photos to show my progress.

You're right, a good foundation is always critical so some sanding and filling is a small price to pay.

Thank you for your help.
Vincent

donfarr

Fri Dec 16 2016, 04:28pm

Registered Member #2001

Joined: Fri Dec 23 2011, 09:51pm
Posts: 1298

Hi Everyone, My two cents for whatever it is worth, I am DEFINATLY NO PURIST BY ANY MEANS, far from it, but I do not like the double planked kits, the veener 2nd planking is hard to cut and keep an edge, for the most part they splinter, JUST AS SOON DO ONE PLANKING THE CORRECT WAY, lately I have not been spiling or using my prportional diveders, along with battens, DAVE WHEN YOU START THIS DISCUSSION PLEASE INCLUDE SOME INFORMATION ON SINGLE PLANKED KITS, BOTH SPILING AND USE OF PROPORIONAL DIVIDERS, I HAVE NEVER UNDERSTOOD THE FAN TYPE PROCESS FOR PLANKIJNG CAN YOU EXPLAIN HOW IT IS DONE so I can understand it. THANKS AND MAY THE LORD JESUES BE WITH YOU AND YOURS Don

dave1254

Fri Dec 16 2016, 08:20pm

Registered Member #2647

Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pm
Posts: 450

Don
I am not sure if this is the place to explain this, but as you know at the dead flat the size or the width of the plank is determined by the plans. Now at the dead flat all planks would almost be the same width. So the first plank at the keel is called the Garboard plank. It has a unique shape all to itself. if you were to rake a plank and pin it next to the garboard and then shape to the frames and you didn't bend or twist it you would notice that it gets thinner in width as you get to the stern or stem.
The idea of the fan is to help you get within close proximity to your final shape to finish sand it.
At the dead flat if you need say 5 planks for a run then you measure the widths needed. ( eg. 5/16ths width x 5 strakes therefore total width is 10/16ths or 5/8th inches) take the fan and starting at the widest part of the fan measure on a parallel vertical until you arrive at 5/8ths (5 strakes)
Now going to the point of the fan you can measure at each frame width the thickness of each strake. Your strakes get thinner at each frame
I am sure others have an easier explanation and hope they can fill in gaps.
Dave

[ Edited Fri Dec 16 2016, 08:24pm ]

donfarr

Fri Dec 16 2016, 09:02pm

Registered Member #2001

Joined: Fri Dec 23 2011, 09:51pm
Posts: 1298

Thanks Dave, It helps, still not quite sure of this, HOW DO YOU DRAW OR PLOT THE INTIAL FAN, and is this method better then the use of BATTENS AND PROPOTERNAL DIVEDERS WITH OR WITOUT SPILING. THANKS Don

dave1254

Fri Dec 16 2016, 09:27pm

Registered Member #2647

Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pm
Posts: 450

If I can find it I have a fan ( from some where) that I could download to you. As far as the {. dividers I have only used once. It sounds from what I read before are different than yours. Mine If I need 5 strakes I set ti 5 to 1 And then measure at each frame and then transfer at smaller end to the plank. Then I set to 4 to 1 measure at each frame transferring from smaller end to plank.
Dave

[ Edited Sat Dec 17 2016, 12:49am ]