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| HMS SPHINX 1775 | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| dave1254 |
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 Registered Member #2647 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pmPosts: 450 | Hi All This is going to be an interesting build for me. I drew it for Winston and the sit, but also I have been only doing computer work for the last 4 years. Time to build. HMS. SPHYNX 1775 I volunteered approximately 2 years ago to draw the plans of the Sphynx for the MSB site. I receaved the plans, via email and proceeded to trace the plans in Autocad. This would have been what I would have done for myself but I was beginning to dislike them. They appeared rough. So I contacted the NMM. in England and receaved at the time as much information they had on the Sphynx class ships. Long story short I redrew the plans as accurately as possible using contracts and other drawings. After approximately 2 years I finished the drawings and about 2 weeks ago decided to go ahead and build her. I contacted The Lumberyard, Dave S. and made arrangements for him to laser cut the parts. I could have saved some money by cutting out the parts my self but I would have spent a long time doing this but would have spent more on material cost anyway. Once I receave the frame and hull parts I will start construction and continue with this log. So in the mean time I have included the plans for you to look at and either follow along or join in and build your own.            | ||
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| daves |
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| Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 2883 | When the British were building ships on the great lakes they came up with the idea of sending pre made ships. These were ships built in English yards taken apart and sent to north America to be reassembled. Two such ships were the Psyche and the Royal George. Dave F completed plans for the Sphinx and asked me to laser cut the parts. This is the same idea the British had of pre cutting the ship to be built on site. Once I broke down Dave's plans for the framing I had to lay out the frames for laser cutting. As I was doing this I realized the task faced by the ship builders once they got all the parts. How would they ever know what frame futtock belonged to what frame. Here is the layout of all the frames, there is approximately 550 parts that make up the framing and keel assembly. the British had an interesting concept of full scale ship kits. the idea also works well for model kits when all the parts are nested together on a sheet of wood. It saves on the cost of wood and it also saves on weight for shipping. In order to fit all the parts on sheets they are placed very close together to close to be cut with a saw as some are .020 apart. A laser has a beam of .006 My part in the project was to come up with a set of laser cut frames, keel parts and the deck structure. At this time I am working out a set of carvings and figurehead for 3D printing which is a project in itself and something that interests me personally. This model is built like the real ship, timber for timber and I believe it will make a first class model. This build log will be interesting to follow because this model is built up right and free standing, that is not in a jig.  | ||
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| daves |
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| Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 2883 | in order to assemble the frames the layout drawing is color coded each sheet is made up of 3 colors blue, red and black next sheet of frames is purple, green and black third sheet is light blue, pink and black and the forth sheet is magenta, light blue and black. so looking at sheet 1 frame 1 is blue frame next to the blue is red then black so on and so forth.  | ||
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| daves |
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| Registered Member #105 Joined: Wed Jul 15 2009, 12:01pmPosts: 2883 | what I did was to leave the ends of the top timbers open. I did this because the laser will take a small amount of material out of the scarf joinery leaving the finished frame a little short of the cap rail. Also this leaves a little room for cutting down the frames when cutting the sheer. Realizing there is a + or - when the hull is assembled there was an offset included in the size of the frames. This offset also provides extra material to clean off the laser char and finish the frames.  | ||
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| dave1254 |
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| Registered Member #2647 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pmPosts: 450 | To give you an idea how ships were built, here are pictures of a Russian 54 gun 4th rate The Poltava being built. The first picture is of a frame built on the floor ready to be lifted and put in place. But look in the background. You will see futtocks ready. The next few deal with the full frames in position and supported. Again look in the background for other details. The one I especially like is the one showing the curve of the stem and where the figurehead sits. The last picture shows the completed framing if you can see it through all the scaffolding and catwalks. This will give you a pretty good idea of what I want to attempt for a build.       | ||
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| twintrow |
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| Registered Member #121 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 04:41amPosts: 436 | I hope all that advertising is from paid sponsors ;o) | ||
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| dave1254 |
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| Registered Member #2647 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pmPosts: 450 | Hi Tom How I wish. | ||
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| John D |
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  Registered Member #4272 Joined: Sat Sep 07 2013, 12:36pmPosts: 67 | Very cool pictures! And that looks like much of it was done with modern power tools. | ||
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| dave1254 |
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| Registered Member #2647 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pmPosts: 450 | Sorry for the delay on the build. I received the laser cut parts for the Sphinx over the holidays and just got around to starting. Even though it's 1/4"to the foot it is not a very big ship. At just over 30' I guess some would say it's big enough. Mt eyesight however it is quite small. I will be tahing my time and with the strict purpose of proving the drawings are correct. The laser cutting is spectacular. So so far everything looks good. With that in mind, the frames are 1/4" or 12" full scale. This makes the spaces between the frames 1/32" This is why a jig will be difficult to use. I can not possibly cut something that small and it would be a lot easier to build free standing. The tools I would use are simple and will make building easy. There are 2 parts of the plans that I am going to leave as if you are going to build with frames at reduced from 1/4'. Let me explain. If you look at the Framing plan above you will see the sizes of the frames as they are represented on the real ship. 11" center 10" either side and 9 1/2" at fore and aft. The rising wood on the keel and the under side of the keelson are notched for this. If I were to change this to 1/4" then there would be someone who would want to make their frames sided smaller and they would be loose on those parts. It is easier to remove the material rthan to add. I am now starting with the frames first because there are so many. When I can figure out this phone camera thing I will post pictures. My thoughts on laser cutting. I know there are people out there who only producw models by doing all their own work. I admire this, because I was the same when I built planes and then got into ships. But now with my eyes failing Dave's ability to provide kits or parts for us I commend. It keeps my enthusiasm about building alive. Thank you Dave at the Lumberyard. So onward I go. Oh and BTW I am not a great builder so please bear with me. | ||
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| dave1254 |
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| Registered Member #2647 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pmPosts: 450 | As you can see by the pictures below I started the frames. I printed on standard 8 1/2 x 11 paper the frames from the drawing. I then layed out the individual pieces checked them and then glued them together. The 2 cross pieces are to strengthen an also keep the top of the frames from spreadinf apart. The top one is just below the cap and the middle one is located at the waterline. This will be used later to take measurements from to keep the frames square. The last picture shows in production.    | ||
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