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| Model Shipways Bluenose II | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk
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| Author | Post | ||
| Pendragon |
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 Registered Member #1530 Joined: Thu Mar 17 2011, 09:53pmPosts: 13 | It appears that the size of the third piece of the keel is a little larger than the other two pieces. I first raised this issue on my March 23rd post and followed Richard's advice. I expanded the size of the misshappen notch and glued a small shim to get the pieces to fit square. The joint looks pretty good, but I still have a little overhang on the bottom of the stern piece. I imagine I'll need to sand/cut this so that it looks fair. But I'm open to any suggestions. | ||
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| Richardt |
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  Registered Member #1244 Joined: Thu Nov 04 2010, 04:59pmPosts: 122 | From what I can see, there's not much you can do other than sand the bottom. I'm a bit uncomfortable with this because if I look at the lower straight drawn (carbon) line you will note that it does not correspond exactly with the line continuing to the middle piece. I don't know how this could have been caused but look at it again before sanding. There may be a better solution. At least you will be sanding at the bottom that we know to be a straight line rather than the top that is the curved sheer line. Richard | ||
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| Winston |
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winston   Registered Member #1 Joined: Sat Jun 13 2009, 02:08pmPosts: 2246 | By the looks of things, it appears that when they drew the plans for the laser cutter they simply didn't take into consideration the cutting process for the larger stern piece. I would think that so long as you have a nice continuous bend at the sheer, a quick sanding of the bottom should resolve your problem. | ||
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| Richardt |
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| Registered Member #1244 Joined: Thu Nov 04 2010, 04:59pmPosts: 122 | You are probably correct Winston. I wanted to eliminate the possibility of modeller's error before the sanding commences. Errors by the manufacturers are commonplace as we know. However, the keel line is misplaced and should be corrected in case it is overlooked when further work at the gripe commences. Pendragon, I'm sure that you will come through this one without battle-scars :>) Richard | ||
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| Boomer |
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| Registered Member #1532 Joined: Fri Mar 18 2011, 04:46amPosts: 18 | Pendragon, good luck. Looks like an exciting project. Who did you buy the Bluenose II from and at what scale. Dan | ||
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| Pendragon |
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| Registered Member #1530 Joined: Thu Mar 17 2011, 09:53pmPosts: 13 | It's a Model Shipways, 3/16" = 1 ft. I think that's 1/64 th scale. Here's a link: http://seagifts.com/bliiwomokitb2.html | ||
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| Pendragon |
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| Registered Member #1530 Joined: Thu Mar 17 2011, 09:53pmPosts: 13 | I double checked the template I copied from the plans and confirmed correct. As the top matched up, I redrew the rabbet line to match the middle section. I also cut/sanded the bottom to match. I've cut the rabbet and thought it looked OK. But then I assembled the bulkheads on the center keel. You can see in the picture attached that the bulkheads don't quite match the bearding line. I marked the bottom of the bulkheads and used my template to mark a new line. Looks like I've got some more chisleling to do. P.S. I did get one small battle scar from the chisel. Those things can bite!!  [ Edited Fri Apr 22 2011, 01:04am ] | ||
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| Pendragon |
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| Registered Member #1530 Joined: Thu Mar 17 2011, 09:53pmPosts: 13 | Moving right along, I feel like I'm starting to make headway. I"ve faired the rabbet so that it matches the bulkheads. I've checked that the keel is straight and that all bulkheads fit true. I've fixed the center bulkhead so that it's square to the center keel. Now I'm ready to start glueing (always a risky adventure).  | ||
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| Pendragon |
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| Registered Member #1530 Joined: Thu Mar 17 2011, 09:53pmPosts: 13 | I've got all the bulkheads glued in place and am now working on getting everything ready for planking. Looks like I've still got a long way to go before I get to that point though. There is an item that is puzzling me. The Model Shipways instructions state: Covering the Mast Slots: Cut the pieces shown on Sheet 2 from scrap wood, then glue to both sides of the two mast slots in the center keel. Make sure they are securly fastened, because access to them is impossible after the deck is laid. Notice the two methods shown. If a flat piece is used, cut a tenon int he bottom of the masts to fit the slots. I have attached pictures of the relevant parts of Sheet 2. Obviously the idea that I won't be able to get to this to make any correction later is a bit unnerving. If I use simple flat pieces now, I will have to cut the tenon later. If I don't want to cut the tenon, I have to shape the pieces now. So, pay now or pay later. Which way do you think is best?   | ||
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| Richardt |
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| Registered Member #1244 Joined: Thu Nov 04 2010, 04:59pmPosts: 122 | Hi Pendragon, This is a pretty wierd way to step a mast. The mast would normally go all the way down to the keel and be stepped there. I don't see a way to do that without other problems arising. Anyhow, I suggest that you do as they say. However, to achieve this it will be necessary to plank the deck before the hull. You will need to make the tenon on the bottom of the mast assemble the mortice and glue it to the underside of the deck planking before you close the hull. This is also counter normal practice but I don't see otherwise. There is very little in the way of strengthening the mast fitting for the mast and they way they have suggested the tenon will prevent the mast from accidental turning that would leave it vulnerable. You will also note that the mortice should be partially inserted into the underside of the deck. You will need a tool (that is not commonly found in a modellers toolbox) to achieve this unless they have suggested a method elsewhere. This would, of course, also strengthen the joint. Don't glue the mast in place yet. Just check that the fitting is OK. When you have completed the deck planking, continue planking the hull. I would suggest that you start at the top and go down as far as the wales or even about midway. Then start at the bottom with the garboard strake at the keel and work upwards. At the end you will have a "shutter" plank that will finally close the hull. It is not difficult to shape and mount this. However, be careful to mark your hull precisely to see if you need stealers (that I don't doubt) but plan where these should go before you start. (They are called "stealers" because you can steal up on them and have them finished before they can give you troubles!!) :>) Lets see some extra pics as you proceed so that we can suggest something else if things start looking awry. I don't glue my masts into the hull. Once the rigging is done, it will hold the masts in place. If you need to make a big repair in the event of disaster then you also don't want to have to break the masts out of the hull. Richard. | ||
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