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| HMY Royal Caroline (1749) scratch-built 1:24 scale | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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  Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20AMPosts: 1888 | Name: HMY Royal Caroline Ordered: 22 August 1749 Builder: Deptford Dockyard Launched: 29 January 1750 Renamed: HMY Royal Charlotte in 1761 Fate: Broken up in July 1820 General characteristics: Class & type: Royal yacht Tons burthen: 232 11⁄94 (bm) Length: 90 ft 1 in (27.46 m) (gundeck) 72 ft 2 1⁄2 in (22.009 m) (keel) Beam: 24 ft 7 in (7.49 m) Depth of hold: 11 ft (3.4 m) Sail plan: Full rigged ship Armament: 8 x 4-pounder (or 10 x 3-pounder) guns + 8 x ½-pdr swivel guns HMY Royal Caroline was a ship-rigged royal yacht. She was ordered in 1749 to replace HMY Carolina as Britain's principal royal yacht. She was built at Deptford Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright John Hollond to a design by Surveyor of the Navy Joseph Allin. She was launched on 29 January 1750 and was broken up 70 years later, in 1820. Service Royal Caroline was first commissioned under Captain Sir Charles Molloy, who commanded her until 1753. Captain Sir Piercy Brett took over in 1754, and in August 1761 she became the flagship of Admiral of the Fleet Lord Anson, with Captain Peter Denis as his flag-captain.[1] Anson had orders to convey Duchess Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz from Cuxhaven, Kiel to marry George III. Accompanying the yacht, renamed HMY Royal Charlotte in honour of the occasion, was a squadron of warships and four other royal yachts, HMY Mary, Katherine, Augusta and Fubbs.[2] During the return voyage the squadron was three times blown over to the Norwegian coast by westerly gales and took ten days to reach Harwich, which it did on 6 September 1761.[1] Royal Charlotte was commissioned under Peter Denis in December 1763, and remained under his command until 1770. Denis was succeeded by Captain John Campbell that year, and Campbell remained in command until his promotion to rear-admiral in 1777.[1] Royal Charlotte was recommissioned under Captain William Cornwallis in March 1783, and he was succeeded in turn by Captain Sir Hyde Parker in 1788. The yacht was briefly recommissioned in December 1792, but was paid off the following year.[1] French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars She continued to be used for official occasions during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with King George III making frequent trips in his yachts to welcome returning fleets and to conduct fleet reviews.[3] The King embarked on Royal Charlotte in 1797 to visit the fleet at the Nore after the Battle of Camperdown, in order to honour Admiral Adam Duncan. Contrary winds however prevented the ship from reaching the mouth of the Thames, and instead the King was blown back up river to Greenwich.[3] Royal Charlotte recommissioned again in May 1801 under Captain Sir Harry Neale, though by February 1804 Captain George Grey was in command. Grey was succeeded later in 1804 by Captain George Towry, and he in turn in 1805 by Captain Edward Foote. By this time Royal Charlotte had been succeeded as the principal royal yacht by the introduction of the slightly larger HMY Royal Sovereign in 1804.[4] Captain Foote commanded the yacht until 1812, when Captain Thomas Eyles took over command, and in June 1814 Captain George Scott became her commander.[1] Royal Charlotte continued in service until July 1820, when she was finally broken up.[1] References • Madge, Tim (1997). Royal Yachts of the World. Thomas Reed Publications. ISBN 0-901281-74-3. • Winfield, Rif (2007). British Warships in the Age of Sail 1714–1792: Design, Construction, Careers and Fates. Seaforth. ISBN 1-86176-295-X. THE GOAL OF BUILDING LOG The purpose of this building log is to document the methods I employed in building a large-scale (1:24) plank-on-frame model of the HMY Royal Caroline from scratch. I will describe the thought processes, building techniques, and how I approached the more challenging aspects of the build. THE SOURCES The primary source that will be used in building the model is a volume in the Anatomy of the Ship series entitled The Royal Yacht Caroline (1749) by Sergio Bellabarba and Giorgio Osculati. Other sources will undoubtedly be used, and they will be identified at the time they are consulted. THE PLANS The primary source mentioned above contains all the plans that will be used in the construction of the model. The plans in the book are drawn at several different scales, so the first task is to enlarge each plan to 1:24 scale. Since I distrusted the scales shown in the book, mainly because I have found errors in other books in the Anatomy of the Ship series, I manually measured each plan to determine an enlargement factor so that all plans would be enlarged at exactly the same scale (1:24). To enlarge each plan, I used a Brava Reader program, which is available as a free download from the internet. The program requires that a series of pages must be printed from a single drawing and then be rubber-cemented together to form a single plan. Extreme care is required for this process, because even the slightest deviation will affect such a large-scale drawing. To get started, I only enlarged the diagrams required for the construction of the keel assembly, the frames, and the building jig. These include: A1/1 – Sheer elevation. A1/2 – Body plan aft showing the run of the planking. A1/3 – Body plan forward. A1/4 – Waterlines. A3/3 – Interior profile. B2 and B3 – Hull sections. LOFTING THE FRAMES AND BUILDING THE BUILDING JIG The first task is to loft a plan for each of the frames. This is a slow process that requires about 15 hours to complete. There are approximately 45 frames. Once the frames have been lofted, the building jig can be developed from the frames. I chose the load waterline at my focal point for building the jig. Using 1/8” Masonite, I used one piece that measured 48” by 32”. First, I plotted ½” spaced all across the long side of the Masonite, which represents “room and space” for all frames (1/2” frame with ½” spaces between each frame). Then I cut the Masonite in half lengthwise, making two sheets that measured 48” by 16”. One sheet becomes the base of the building jig. On the remaining sheet, I plotted the width of each frame at the LWL. Joining all the plotted points together is a smooth curve, I used a saber saw to cut out the shape of the ship at the LWL. I cut about 16 pieces of scrap wood to a length of 4 ½”, which represents the distance from the base of the keel to the load waterline. I glued these pieces to the base piece of Masonite at regular intervals. Then I glued the cut-out piece atop of the pieces, ensuring that both the top and bottom pieces are perfectly symmetrical in all directions. Before the glue set, I checked that all frames were in perfect alignment, that all frames were at right angles to the keel, and that the stem and sternpost were perpendicular to the base piece of Masonite. BUILDING THE KEEL ASSEMBLY The keel assembly includes the shoe, the keel itself, the stem, the sternpost, and the deadwood at the stem and the stern. All of these pieces were cut, glued, and doweled together from ½” clear pine. I used 1/16” bamboo dowels. Instead of cutting a rabbet in the keel, I cut the rabbet directly out of the keel with a band saw, dividing the assembly into two separate pieces, and then installed a 3/8”-wide piece of 1/16” basswood to serve as the rabbet.     | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50PMPosts: 928 | Gene, great to see yet another build of yours take shape! Always an inspiration. G | ||
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| Holzwurm |
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  Registered Member #934 Joined: Sun May 16 2010, 08:30AMPosts: 51 | Hope, you have a seat in the first row for me. Gene, if possible, try to get the original italian version of the book. In my opinion the drawings are much better | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20AMPosts: 1888 | Thanks for the tip, Christian. Gene | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20AMPosts: 1888 | BUILDING SQUARE FRAMES Each frame consists of two layers of ¼’ basswood, thus making each frame a double frame of ½” thickness. The room between frames is also ¼”. One layer contains a floor, four futtocks, and two top timbers. The other layer contains a floor, two futtocks, and two top timbers. Butt joints are used between each of the pieces, and the butt joints on each of the two layers are staggered so that no two butt joints are in the same location in both layers. Bamboo dowels, used for trenails, are positioned on each side of all butt joints on both layers to secure the two layers together, which means there are 20 trenails per double frame. The photos show the frames as they were installed, with very little sanding to give them proper shape. The small wood spacers between many of the frames are temporary, only used until the frames are permanently secured by several internal structures. So far, 24 frames have been built and installed. Unfortunately, the wheel protector on my band saw broke, thus putting me at a standstill for several days until I receive a replacement.    | ||
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| Holzwurm |
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| Registered Member #934 Joined: Sun May 16 2010, 08:30AMPosts: 51 | Really nice progress, Gene. Does exist a description how do you draw your frames? | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20AMPosts: 1888 | Christian, Thanks. I explain the lofting of frames in my Eagle practicum, which is available on this site for free. Gene | ||
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| Holzwurm |
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| Registered Member #934 Joined: Sun May 16 2010, 08:30AMPosts: 51 | Thanks for the hint. I will look for it at the weekend. | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50PMPosts: 928 | Gene. I really like the use of spacers. Are these tacked in with a little wood glue? I hadn't thought about removing them, but might do so on my eagle. Thanks, G | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20AMPosts: 1888 | Gary, The spacers on the jig itself are glued in place, not to the frames but only to the jig, every time I install another frame, one by one. I glue and clamp them tightly in place with each installation, checking for perfect alignment. The spacers between the frames themselves are not tacked or glued; instead, they are held by the rubber bands unless they are unnecessary, as is the case with many of the frames. All of the spacers are temporary and will be removed after some of the internal structures, like deck clamps and some of the planking, have been installed. Their only purpose is to provide a method of aligning the frames vertically and spacing them apart equally only until internal structures can be permanently installed to serve that purpose. Gene [ Edited Wed Mar 04 2015, 10:03PM ] | ||
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