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| first project: Billings Boat kit 452 'Bluenose' | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| Peter Foele |
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 Registered Member #4491 Joined: Mon Sep 22 2014, 01:09pmPosts: 142 | This is my first project, an old Billings boat kit of the Schooner Bluenose. The accessories are missing, but I will deal with that issue when I come to it. First I will focus on building the hull. The first step consist of cutting out two parts of the keel and gluing them together with another wooden bit (see first picture).  At first I struggled to get the individual parts matching the drawings perfectly. Then I thought it would not matter much, until I read one of the building blogs that mention 'rippling effect' quit a lot, which made me think again. So I revisited each part, and tried to get them to line up with the drawing. I noticed that when putting them together the bulkheads will fit in the correct places, but that the outer lines are too wide and fall outside the line drawings. So I thought that if I glued them together as they are now, at least the bulkheads will be in the right position. Then I can work on the outer edges of the entire unit (instead of each individual part).  So far all has worked, bar one small problem: the individual planks have a slight difference in thickness (the middle bit is slightly thinner). This is a problem as part of it will remain visible when the hull is completed. The idea is to first adjust all dimensions and create the hole at the nose (as per drawing), then to find a way to even out the thickness of the keel before moving on to adjusting the bulkheads. Can anybody give me any pointers? Slainte, Peter | ||
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| Winston |
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winston   Registered Member #1 Joined: Sat Jun 13 2009, 02:08pmPosts: 2516 | Does the thinner piece meet your scale needs? What I'm wondering is if you can glue them together and then sand down the excess from the other two until they are the same thickness. It's not uncommon to see woods be slightly thicker than needed leaving it up to the modeler to do the final shaping. If that is not an option and assuming you are using laser cut parts that come still attached to the main stock, is there a piece of scrap wood left over in the kit that is thick enough that you could cut out a new piece from? I know often times I keep all this extra stock from kits or builds as it has come in handy many times. | ||
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| Peter Foele |
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| Registered Member #4491 Joined: Mon Sep 22 2014, 01:09pmPosts: 142 | Hi Winston, thanks for your reply. The thinner wood suits the scale, and (as an added bonus) if I sand the thicker bits to that thickness I will lose the markings on those. This is a very old kit, and does not have any laser cuts (hence I have to cut it out with a fretsaw and then sand to suit). This makes the building slower of course - but on the other hand, it does generate time for me to learn to think ahead - which will come in handy if ever I start building ships from plans instead of kits. Peter | ||
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| aew |
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aew Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2924 | While you're doing the first task of the build is a good time to give some thought to the last task! When you've completed the model, how do you intend to mount and display it? If you're going to mount it on pedestals you will be wanting to screw into that centre piece. Gluing reinforcing pieces each side of it at this stage (inside the hull) will make that operation much less traumatic later. | ||
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| Peter Foele |
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| Registered Member #4491 Joined: Mon Sep 22 2014, 01:09pmPosts: 142 | Hi Arthur, thanks for the heads-up. I think for this time I will use the stand provided with the kit (although I may make some slight modifications to it, don't know yet). At present I have cut out all bulkheads, and attempted a dry-fitting.    To see how the top plank would look, I clamped it onto the bulkheads.     [ Edited Sun Oct 12 2014, 04:30pm ] | ||
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| Peter Foele |
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| Registered Member #4491 Joined: Mon Sep 22 2014, 01:09pmPosts: 142 | some more pictures:      I think I am ready to start gluing the bulkheads to the keel so I can bevel them where needed. One question though - reading the practicums and the pdf-file 'Simple Hull planking techniques for beginners' It appears I have to continue the taper on the keel below the beard line. I can transfer the beard line from plans to keel easy enough, but should I cut out the tapered part BEFORE gluing the bulkheads or AFTER? My worry is that if I do it before the taper may not line up as good as I want, and if I do it after the bulkheads may get in my way. I was also thinking of filling in the spaces between the bulkheads with insulating foam (can be removed later) to assist getting the shape of the hull complete so the taper suits better, but for this I will need the bulkheads glued to the keel (some of them are a bit loose to my taste). Cheers for any tips Peter [ Edited Sun Oct 12 2014, 04:31pm ] | ||
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| teleman |
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 Registered Member #1925 Joined: Tue Nov 29 2011, 05:32amPosts: 1360 | HI PETER. YOUR DOING A GREAT JOB ON YOUR BLUENOSE. I HOPE I'M UNDERSTANDING YOU RIGHT. I TOOK ONE OF YOUR PICTURES AND PUT A RED LINE TO KINDA REPRESENT THE BEARDING LINE. IF YOU NOTICE THE ENDS OF THE BULKHEADS. IS THIS WHAT YOUR TALKING ABOUT? THEY WILL BE OVERLAPPING THE BEARDING LINE. THIS IS WHAT HAPPENS WITH KITS A LOT. IT'S NO BIG DEAL. WHEN I BUILT MY BENJAMIN LATHAM SCHOONER I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. THE BEARDING LINE HAS TO BE CLEAR. BECAUSE YOUR GARBER PLANK(STRAKE) HAS TO REST ON THE B. LINE UNMOLESTED. SO WHAT I DID WAS I HAD TO MODIFY MY BULKHEADS AT THE BOTTOM, SO THEY WOULD NOT CROSS THE B. LINE. BUT I HAD TO MAKE SURE I STILL HAD A NICE LEVEL AT THE TOP OF THE BULKHEAD FOR MY DECK PLANKS. AS FOR THE HULL, I DID A BIT OF FAIRING TO SHAPE THE HULL. BUT THAT WAS NO BIG DEAL. I HOPE I UNDERSTOOD YOU RIGHT.  | ||
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| dbharmon64 |
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  Registered Member #149 Joined: Thu Jul 23 2009, 06:19pmPosts: 97 | Wow, I like this build being P.O.B. than I do having a solid haul. | ||
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| Peter Foele |
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| Registered Member #4491 Joined: Mon Sep 22 2014, 01:09pmPosts: 142 | Hi Mario, I do have some bulkheads breaking the bearding line, and I know I have to send them to bring them 'in line' so to speak. What puzzles me is when to apply the technique described in the pdf you can find on this thread,: http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/e107_plugins/forum/forum_viewtopic.php?18970 particularly on page 5 of the pdf. Slainte Peter | ||
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| dave1254 |
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| Registered Member #2647 Joined: Fri May 25 2012, 08:08pmPosts: 405 | Peter So far great job. I would recommend that you clamp your keel in a jib/ flat on a board. You notice the flat on top of the bulkheads. also check to make sure each bulkhead is flat.This would allow you to keep the keel straight and also use as a reference so when gluing the bulkheads in they are perpendicular to the keel and flat. Also I don't know if you thought of the fairing of the bulkheads from front to back or stem to sternpost. The bulkheads as you get closer to each end will taper. and as you get closer to the keel you will be sanding off some material. I would recommend putting in the bearding line pencil first fair the bulkheads and then adjust the bulkheads at the bearding line. It is important to have a jig because as you fair the bulkheads the hull could twist and cause you fits later. Fair a little put back in jig and check how you are progressing and then continue on. Keep up the great progress. Dave | ||
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