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| Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| Jonathan G |
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  Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1050 | At this point I decided that the exterior still needed something, so I added a piece of unstained 1/32” x 1/32” basswood right up against the sheer plank. It did two things. First it added a little snap to the boat. I had seen other small boats with similar structures. Second, it covered up small gaps between the planking and the sheer plank. The basswood piece was cut from the 1/32” x 3/32” basswood planking stock that came with the kit. I actually made two strips from one plank! Boy, I love that Byrne’s saw!  | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1050 | It seemed to me that all ship’s boats are basically the same at this stage of the build. Looking at all of my 46 Rattlesnake models images that I have collected from the internet, I selected the ones with clear/detailed images of the ship’s boat. Not one of them duplicated any other’s boat. Everyone was different. That meant I had free rein as to what mine was going to look like. Taking elements from the kit itself, the Practicum, other boats on or off the Rattlesnake, and reference books, I came up with my version. Like most boats, I created a backseat with two side seats. Some of the models I had seen had a lid over the back seat so I thought that would be neat to have. The lid was simply etched into the wood. Additionally I added a mast block (my own design since I didn’t have much to go on) and some brass rings fore and aft colored black with a Sharpie pen.  [ Edited Thu Apr 03 2014, 06:43pm ] | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1050 | The seat pieces were cut and trimmed to fit and glued into place. The “hinges” are nothing more than pieces of black paper that were added when I Poly-wiped the wood. The remainder of the thwarts (seats) were supported by the risers (support strips). The forward thwart had a half round notch cut out for an optional mast.  [ Edited Thu Apr 03 2014, 06:54pm ] | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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 Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Jonathan, Nice piece of work there. Gene | ||
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| Raymond Deliz |
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  Registered Member #4329 Joined: Thu Dec 12 2013, 06:21pmPosts: 382 | Jonathan, That is truly impressive. The added details and the leeway you have in deciding what you want in it is awesome. | ||
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| Gary M |
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| Registered Member #4198 Joined: Tue May 07 2013, 10:50pmPosts: 904 | Jonathan, Great details. I hope you dont mind if I use them on my boat. Afterall, Immitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Gary! | ||
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| aew |
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aew  Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2925 | Nice work Jonathan. I like the hinged section at the stern. | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1050 | Thank you all for the positive support. Here is one more image I meant to add in my last post | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1050 | I noticed on many models, that the thwarts had little braces (knees) securing them to the hull so I added those. I tried to round the corners, but they were so tiny I could barely hold them steady, let alone file them. As it turned out in the end, you can hardly see them. | ||
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| Jonathan G |
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| Registered Member #4155 Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pmPosts: 1050 | The top rail was made using a template traced from the model. If I had made the model perfect it would have matched the plans and I could have just cut the template directly from them. Since it wasn't, I couldn't. Each side template had to be cut in two places to create the splines for the three pieces of 1/32” x 3/32” Teakwood to accommodate the boat’s curve. The top of the transom was ¼”.  | ||
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