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| USS Constitution in Six Cross Sections -- 1:32 scale | ||
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Moderators: Winston, aew
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| Author | Post | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
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  Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | INTRODUCTION This building log will explain how I will build SIX cross sections of the U.S.S. Constitution on a scale of 3/8” = 1’ (1:32). The overall length of all six sections combined will be about 80”, and it is intended that the interior of each of section will contain all details all four decks, and it is further intended that all six sections will interlock to form an 80” ship built in admiralty style. No rigging will be installed. The plans I will be using are those found in Karl Heinz Marquardt’s book entitled “The 44-Gun Frigate USS Constitution,’ which is a volume from the Anatomy of the Ship series of books. All plans will be enlarged to 1:32 scale by employing Brava Reader, a program that can be found as a free download from the internet. I realize that Marquardt’s framing disposition has been criticized as not being accurate, as can be seen from many photos taken during its periods of reconstruction. However, I will be using his plans in spite of the criticism, mainly because I need a starting point for my own framing, and until someone develops a more accurate plan, I will be using his plans. If nothing else, I will document Marquardt’s concept of the U.S.S. Constitution. PART 1: THE FIRST CROSS SECTION The first cross section will extend from the aft side of the gangway boards to the aft side of the wardroom skylight – a length of about 32’ (about 12” on this scale). In order to build the frames, the first task is to enlarge the Body Plan found on the inside of the dust jacket of the book to 1:32. You will also need to enlarge the Frame Dispositions diagram found on page 60-61 and the Frame Pieces on page 63 to the same scale. The frames for this cross section run from Marquardt’s Frame 5 to Frame 12. In the model, this will result in 30 individual half or double frames. Frames 6, 8, 10, and 12 are given directly on the Body Plan. Frames between these areas are approximated by interpolation, assuming that Frame 7, for example, lies about midpoint between Frame 6 and Frame 8. Further approximation is assumed for frames that lie between the interpolated lines. Precision is not required, because a fair allowance is made for each frame by extending bevel lines as additional adjustments, which will eventually be sanded to a smooth hull curvature after all the frames for any given cross section is completed. I am using 18” square pieces of paper for all frame layouts. This size paper can be found in rolls of adequate size. The outer edge of any given frame is drawn from the Body Plan, using carbon paper to transfer the line. In inner edge of a frame is taken from the measurements found on the Frame Pieces plan. I use similar measurements for every frame of this cross section, plotting points at each scarph joint and chock, and finishing free-hand. The chocks and scarph joints are also measured and drawn on each frame plan, making certain that each item is plotted with a reasonable consistency in each frame. Also mark a reference point for the top edge of the jig you will construct, which will be the uppermost line of the beam of the ship found on the Body Plan. I am using 8-foot pine 1 x 4s that I purchased from Lowe’s. Using a frame drawing, I traced out each piece on a 1 x 4, allowing extra space all around each piece, ensuring the scarph joints and chock joints are perfectly located. Then I cut out all pieces on a band saw and glued them together with carpenter’s glue, using my frame plan as a guide. Finally, I rubber-cemented the entire frame to the frame plan and cut it out on a band saw. A jig is required to hold all the frames in place. Using the point of the widest beam of the ship, which corresponds to the uppermost horizontal line on the Body Plan, I plotted this beam measurement for all frames of the cross section onto a piece of Masonite. Leaving extra space all around, I cut this out with a jig saw. Using another piece of Masonite, I cut out a base, which is the same size as the jig itself. I mounted 9 pillars of appropriate length all around the edges of both pieces of Masonite and glued all together. The keel and false keel are now constructed and glued together. Measure very carefully and determine the precise placement of the keel assembly on the base of the jig. Once this has been determined, glue small blocks of wood on both sides of both ends of the keel assembly to act as stoppers. The keel assembly should be able to be removed and replaced in exactly the same position when done properly. Insert the keel assembly in place. Glue the first frame (Frame 5, which is a double frame) in place on the keel. Make sure it is perfectly perpendicular to the keel. Note that all frames are glued adjacent to each other at the keel only. Since most futtocks get increasingly thinner at you approach the top rail, the spacing distances will also increase as you rise further up. Make sure you adhere to the Framing Disposition plan as you add more and more frames. Add the gun port sills as you add frames. Measure them precisely and place them at each required frame. This should be done with a razor saw, following the Framing Disposition plan. Since it will be difficult to add them after all the frames are installed, it is recommended that they be added as each frame is installed. Keep all gun port openings consistent. Measure carefully.        | ||
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| DanO |
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  Registered Member #115 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 03:01amPosts: 92 | Gene, I built the Mamoli cross section to get myself back into modeling after a many years absence and will be watching your progress with a great deal of anticipation. At this time I am working on the ms USS Constitution and making slow progress and hope to complete before age catches up to me. I have never done a scratch build and sent a note to Winston that I was interested in his upcoming X but I must, to some degree, turn away from my comments and think about attempting your build. The other woman in my life, other than my lovely Laura, is the Conny to whom I will be making my annual pilgremage in May. Thanks for your posting Dan Doyle  | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Dan, Very nice job on your cross section. I've never built a kit. Scratch-building, for me, is the only way to go. It's really not difficult, and it takes basically the same skills. Try it, and I'm sure you'll love it. As I go further into the build, I'll be posting more and more details, more than enough for someone else to follow. When you build your own, send me any questions you might have; I'd be more than happy to assist. Gene | ||
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| DanO |
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| Registered Member #115 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 03:01amPosts: 92 | Thanks Gene | ||
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| treenailmooter |
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  Registered Member #860 Joined: Sat Apr 03 2010, 08:26pmPosts: 1 | Gene, I will watch this project with great interest. I am working, on and off, on the Constitution using the Bob Hunt practicum. Your project will be a fun one to watch. Dennis Putzler [ Edited Sun Apr 04 2010, 12:53am ] | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Dennis, I'm still working on the frames. It seems that I can only produce one frame a day, and there are about 30 of them just for this cross section -- very slow-going. Once the frames are completed, there will be lots of further details on the build. I have a few questions: To Dan: What is that greenish material in the hold that you used for ballast? I've read that the original ballast consisted of 95 tons of cobblestones. I notice, too, that your cross section has three decks, while Marquardt's plans show four decks. Did you modify your build, or is this the way the kit is produced? Anyone who takes a tour of the Connie will observe that the dark green bulwarks of the gun deck contain hundreds, if not thousands, of very prominent rivets. Yet, it seems that nobody, not even Marquardt, shows these rivets in any plans -- at least I can find anyone. Does anyone out there have a pattern or an explanation of this pattern of rivets? I would like to incorporate them into my models. Are they included in Bob Hunt's plans, Dennis? Gene | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | After you have completed all the required frames, use a pad sander to sand all the frames smooth on the interior side as well as the exterior side. I used a medium-grit sandpaper to start the sanding and finished with a fine-grit sandpaper. The only area that should be sanded to perfection is the exterior area below the waterline because this area will remain exposed to view upon completion. The remaining areas need to be smooth also, but a rough smoothness is all that’s required, because all these areas will be planked with ceiling, bulwark, and hull planking.   | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | KEELSON The measurement for the keelson is found on the Internal Hull diagrams shown on pp. 75-76. Enlarge the appropriate diagrams to your scale. Cut out the keelson and glue it in place. To further secure it in place, glue round toothpicks into holes drilled at one-inch intervals. Drill the holes through the keelson and into the keel; make sure the dowels extend down into the keel. CEILING PLANKING On this scale, I used 1/8”-thick planks about ¼” wide, installing only a few on either side of the keelson (more on ceiling planking later). I used carpenter’s glue and supported each plank with clamps at the outermost frames along with a few pins tacked at appropriate intervals. LIMBER PLANKS The limber planks are shown clearly on p. 75 on diagrams D and H. Cut out the limber planks and glue them in place against the keelson. FINDING THE LOCATIONS OF THE WATERWAYS Before finishing the ceiling planking in the orlop deck, it is necessary to find the precise locations of the bottom edges of the waterways for all four decks. These are all shown on pp. 75-76 of Marquardt’s diagrams. However, DO NOT USE THESE DRAWINGS; they are flawed and not drawn precisely. Instead, I recommend that you use the following logical procedure: We have already installed the gun port sills on our cross section. Now enlarge the drawings found on pp. 83-84 for the 24-pounder long guns and the carronades. We know that the center of the shot hole of a gun should be located at the approximate center of the gun port. Measure from the bottom edge of the fore truck of the carriage up to the center of the shot hole, and then add 1/8” for the planking thickness of the deck. The result is the location of the bottom edge of the waterway. Plot these points on the outermost frames of your cross section. Using a ruler, connect these two points with a pencil line. Use this method for both the gun deck and the spar deck. Keep in mind that symmetry is highly important. Note that, on this particular cross section, both ends of the decks are almost identical, but this will not be true for other cross sections for the vessel. The locations for the waterways can now be determined for the berth deck and orlop deck. You can use Marquardt’s cross section measurements for these decks, because they are not as critical as the gun and spar decks. DECK CLAMPS The line you drew in the above step also represents the top edges of all deck clamps. Note that the deck clamps vary in size and shape for each of the four decks, but the top edges are a horizontal plane. Make each pair of deck clamps; align the top edge with the line you drew; glue the deck clamps in place and support them on each end with a clamp and then pin the central areas so they conform to the shape of the frames; and finally, dowel all deck clamps into the frames with round toothpicks.   | ||
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| DanO |
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| Registered Member #115 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 03:01amPosts: 92 | Gene, I was a Mamoli kit which is barely accurate and my first wood projet after a 40 year absence, now retired. There was no orlop on the plans and my primary goal was to develop my skills without being too creative. As for the ballast I got a bag of stones at Michael's, I am sure that there are some readers on the other forum who are wondering what the heck I was talking about. I hope to do another before the year is out which is more accurate. I am making my annual pilgrimage to the Conny in May and taking a bunch of pictures and checking on the Spar Deck progress. There has been a great deal of critisism concerning Marquardt's documentation as I am sure you know but along with the 1927 material I find it to be a super reference. Dan | ||
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| Gene Bodnar |
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| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1778 | Dan, Thanks for your response. Yes, I saw your comment on MSW, and it took me a second or two to realize you were answering a question from this forum. I'm located only 250 miles west of Boston, so when you're in the neighborhood ... I agree that Marquardt's book is a great reference book for plans. However, the more I use his drawings, the more I'm finding inaccuracies between cross-referencing two or more of them. His measurements are not consistent from one drawing to the next. On the other hand, it's not all that serious a problem, because a little common sense can resolve these problems, at least so far. However, if you do use Marquardt's drawings to build a model, I highly recommend that you constantly cross-reference each drawing with others. Maybe it's me, but I have YET to find a perfect set of plans, ever! Gene | ||
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