| Model Ship Builder :: Forums :: Build Logs :: POF Build Logs |
|
<< Previous thread | Next thread >> |
| HMS Ontario (1780) Scale: 1:24 | ||
| Go to page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 | |
|
Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk
|
| Author | Post | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
| ||
  Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | KEELSON The keelson consists of three parts. The first and longest part covers the frames not attached to deadwood. The second length is a curved piece that covers the bow deadwood, and the third length is another curved piece that covers the stern deadwood. The two latter pieces were cut to fit and glued in place. LIMBER STRAKES The two limber strakes, one on each side of the keelson at an angle, are made from 1/16” basswood. They were glued in place and then sanded smooth. MAST STEPS The mast steps for the foremast and mainmast were made from small blocks of clear pine. Both were drilled with a ¼” holes into which the mast heels will be fit. The steps were glued in place with Elmer’s. PLANKING THE HOLD Before planking the hold, I marked out the location of the strakes with a pair of proportional dividers, allowing a total of 12 strakes for the starboard side. Only two strakes were added to the port side. The hold is planked with 1/16” basswood of varying widths, with tapering employed at the bow and stern areas. I used roundhead pins to hold the planks in place until the glue dried. Small gaps between the planks were filled with Elmer’s Carpenter’s Wood Filler. I decided to leave all hold planking natural. BOW DECKS IN HOLD There are two decks at the bow in the hold, one called the fore platform, and the second that contains a passage and the ante room. Beneath the fore platform is the area where powder was stored, and beneath the passage and the ante room is the fore peak magazine. First, I established the location of the deck clamps for both decks, which are on two slightly different planes. The deck clamps, which are made of 1/8” basswood, were glued and doweled to the interior of the hold. Cambered deck beams (3/16” square basswood) were cut and installed onto the deck clamps, three of them for each of the decks. The fore platforms contains a large double hatch that is only raised slightly higher than the deck, and the passage contains one smaller hatch that has a similar slight raise from the deck. The hatch coamings are built of 1/8” basswood and installed against existing beams. The hatch covers are made of 1/16” basswood that has been scored to represent individual planks. A coat of Minwax Golden Oak Stain was applied to the hatch covers. The metalwork on the hatch covers consists of thin pieces of card. The raised rivets are simulated by applying droplets of dimensional fabric paint onto the card. After this paint dried, the metalwork was given a coat of acrylic black paint. They are then glued in place on the hatch covers. A small bamboo dowels are glued in place to represent the hinges. Finally, the hatch covers were installed onto the hatch coamings. Three pillars (1/4” square) were cut to length to fit between the keelson and the deck beams in the power storage area to provide support for the decks. Each pillar was left square at the top and bottom ¼ inch, and the edges of the pillar between the squared portions was filed slightly to flatten them. They are painted acrylic white and installed in place with Elmer’s. Both decks were planked with 1/16”-thick by ¼”-wide basswood. One edge of each plank is rubbed with a 6B pencil to simulate caulking. The planks were cut, one at a time, to fit the allotted length and glued in place onto the deck beams, held in place with pins until dry. Finally, using a Q-Tip, I gave the planking a coat of Minwax Golden Pecan Stain. A large breast hook cut from ¼” wood is sanded at an angle to fit the hold planking at the bow. A smaller breast hook at the bow appears at the level of the main deck. The hole for the foremast was cut with a Dremel grinding bit, and the foremast was temporarily fitted into its mast step. The mast collar was cut from 1/8” wood in 4 pieces, given a coat of Natural Stain, and glued around the mast opening. In order to work on the rooms at the bow, I needed to install a couple of deck beams for the main deck, and these were cut with a camber from clear pine. I also needed to install the first layer of planking for the main deck, which has been painted bright red. After these items were installed, I cut the bulkhead that separate the two decks from the pattern on the Body Plan. I scored it to simulate that it is made from individual 6” wide planks. The window for the lantern was cut out, the both sides of the bulkhead were painted with acrylic white paint. Finally, it was installed with Elmer’s glue, tacking it to the hold planking and the deck beam. Interior bulkheads are all made from 1/8”-thick basswood. Doors are made of 1/16” basswood plus a piece of card cut out to represent paneling and glued atop the basswood. Hinges are small pieces of bamboo dowel, and door knobs are thin pieces of dowel. All was painted with acrylic white paint, except the door knobs, which are painted a bronze color.    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Mike 41 |
| ||
 Registered Member #702 Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pmPosts: 1238 | Gene, I take back what I said about using the gantry jig. You are doing excellent work with the one you’re using now. This is another one of your museum quality models. Mike | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
| ||
| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | Mike, The only thing I don't like about the jig I'm using now is that once the model is finished, the jig is scrap. The gantry-style jig, assuming it's built large enough, can be used over and over. Gene | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| aew |
| ||
aew  Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2824 | Looks like another super model Gene! | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
| ||
| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | MAIN DECK BEAMS There are 13 main deck beams. All are cut from clear pine with a deck camber. They are all ¼” thick by 7/16” wide and are glued to the deck clamps on either side of the interior. STANCHIONS IN THE HOLD All are made from ¼”-square basswood. The top and bottom ¼” of all stanchions were left square, but between these two points, the edges were given a bevel. I gave the stanchions a coat of white acrylic paint and installed them by gluing them to the underside of the deck beams and the keelson with Elmer’s. MAINMAST ENCLOSURE AND SHOT LOCKER First, I built the fore and aft ends of the enclosure, cutting 1/8” pieces of basswood to fit over the keelson and limber strakes and extending them to the appropriate deck beams. I then glued the two ends to the deck beams, ensuring that they are perpendicular to the keelson. I tacked on a temporary piece of planking to both sides of the enclosure to keep it square. Finally, I added the sides of the shot locker, also made from 1/8” basswood, to the fore end of the enclosure. After the glue was thoroughly dry, I removed the two deck beams and the enclosure from the model so I could complete the planking required all around the structure. Next, I cut an opening for the door in the enclosure, and made the door like other doors I’ve already described. I then planked the entire assembly with 1/16” by ¼” basswood. I left one of the doors of the shot locker open, which I will later fill with shot. The hinges on the shot locker doors were made like those described for the hatches at the bow. The entire structure was given a boat of Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and then a coat of Minwax Golden Pecan Stain. The unit was then glued in place onto the keelson and deck clamps. I added two stanchions inside the mainmast enclosure. I also added a ¾” dowel 27.5” long for the mainmast, tapering the bottom 4-5” and adding a ¼” dowel in the heel to fit into the mast step. WELL AND ELM TREE PUMP The foremast enclosure also contains the well and elm tree pumps. Since they are enclosed in the mainmast enclosure, I decided to build them now. The main bodies of the elm tree pumps consist of tapered octagonal lengths of basswood that extend from the garboard strake up to the main deck. To make them I cut two octagonal pieces from 1/16” basswood, one larger than the other, with the smaller at the bottom of the pump and the larger about an inch from the top. Then I cut 8 pieces of 1/16” basswood about 8” long, with a taper that matches the size of the two octagonal pieces, which made them ¼” at the small end and 7/16” at the larger end. I sanded an inward bevel on both sides of each tapered length, and then glued them in place onto the two octagonal pieces. I filled gaps with Elmer’s Wood Filler, sanded the edges smooth, and gave them a coat of Minwax Golden Oak Stain. After determining the exact height of the elm tree pump, I cut it off at that point and installed a circular wash-like piece of doweling over the top. The arm that holds the pump handle was cut out on a jigsaw from apple wood and glued in place. The handle is a length of bamboo dowel into which I inserted a small eye and attached a larger piece of wire with a large eye at the top end, leaving it long enough to extend into the wash-like piece. Finally, the portion that will appear above-deck was painted bright red, with the handle painted black. The below-deck portion was stained with Minwax Golden Oak Stain. Both units will be installed permanently when the upper deck is completed.    | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Mike 41 |
| ||
| Registered Member #702 Joined: Fri Feb 05 2010, 10:37pmPosts: 1238 | Gene, I like the way you have the hinges they look very realistic. You are making nice progress on the build. Mike | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| aew |
| ||
| aew Registered Member #1929 Joined: Wed Nov 30 2011, 03:05pmPosts: 2824 | An interesting way of making the pumps Gene. I'd probably have tried to plane them from a solid piece, which no doubt would have given me problems in holding them. They probably wouldn't have ended up quite so regular in shape either! | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
| ||
| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | Arthur, I've tried planing an octagonal shape from a square piece of wood in the past, but it just doesn't come out right for me. Gene | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Gene Bodnar |
| ||
| Registered Member #126 Joined: Tue Jul 21 2009, 11:20amPosts: 1782 | PLANKING THE INTERIOR BULWARKS The bulwarks from the main deck up were planked with 16” basswood strips that average about ½” in width. Excessive gaps were filled with Elmer’s Wood Filler and sanded smooth. I gave the planking two coats of acrylic bright red paint. GRATINGS There are 3 gratings on the main deck. I made them from 1/8” square basswood, as described in the “Articles” section on this site. LADDERS Two ladders, one aft of the mainmast and another at the bow, extend from the main deck into the hold area. Using a jig to hold the sides of the ladder, I made the sides from 1/8” basswood and the steps from 1/16” basswood. I simply cut the steps to the necessary length and glued them to the sides, spacing them about 5/16” apart and setting them at an angle with a beveled piece of wood set into the jig. I gave the finished ladders a coat of flat white spray paint.’ HANGING KNEES IN THE HOLD I installed the hanging knees beneath each of the deck beams in the hold. They consist of 1/8” basswood, with each one being a slightly different shape due to the curvature of the hull. Each one was therefore cut individually, fitted in place, and beveled to fit the hull, where necessary. I painted them with acrylic white paint and installed them with Elmer’s. BALLAST The author of “The Legend of the Lake” describes the ballast as “tarred sacks of shingles on either side of the keelson.” To make them I cut small blocks of wood and tied them in pieces of Kleenex tissue. I spray painted them with satin black paint and installed them on either side of the keelson. BARRELS The large barrels are 1 7/16” in height and 1 1/8” in diameter across the belly. Starting with a 1 1/8” hardwood dowel, I shaped one end on a sanding dish, turning it constantly. I then cut it off to its length and shaped the other end on the sanding disk. Then I marked out 16 equally spaced staves on one end of the barrel, inserted the barrel in a vise, and used a razor saw to suggest the barrel staves. Finally, I dipped the barrels in Minwax Golden Pecan Stain and wiped them dry. The barrel hoops are made from thin strips of masking tape that has been painted black. I added Elmer’s glue to the tape to ensure proper adhesion. I also used pressure-sensitive graphic tape for many of the barrels, which is very sticky by itself. The smaller barrels (kegs) are made in similar fashion from a ¾” dowel, with each barrel about 7/8” in height. There are also a few conical-shaped barrels. MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS IN THE HOLD I have added other items in the hold, including cordage, lumber, and many boxes of supplies. Except for a few figures that I will be adding shortly, the hold is now finished.      | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| donfarr |
| ||
| Registered Member #2001 Joined: Fri Dec 23 2011, 09:51pmPosts: 1298 | Gene, Outstanding work as usual fantastic w/speed to boot. Question i have some gaps on my deck planking if i use elmers wood filler can i stain it w/ Golden pecan by Min Wax after using conditioner the wood is Birch. Thanks Don | ||
| Back to top | | ||
| Go to page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 | |
Powered by e107 Forum System