Forums / POB Build Logs / Building Robert Hunt’s Kitbashed Mamoli’s American Privateer Rattlesnake, a 1:64 Scale POB Model

Forums

Model Ship Builder :: Forums :: Build Logs :: POB Build Logs		<< Previous thread \| Next thread >>
Building Robert Hunt’s Kitbashed Mamoli’s American Privateer Rattlesnake, a 1:64 Scale POB Model

Go to page 1 2 3 ... 80 81 82
Moderators: Winston, aew, bikepunk

Author

Post

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:20pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

I final finished my first wooden boat, the Mini Mamoli British Schooner Evergreen, a 1:125 Scale Solid Hull Model after a two year build. This was my first attempt at such an endeavor in 30 years. I had started the Billings Boat’s POB Zwarte Zee , an ocean tug back then but got about only about 85% complete. I never finished it. So with a completed build under my belt, I set my sights on the 1781 American Privateer, The Rattlesnake. I considered the Evergreen my “training wheels” for this build. Although technically the Zwarte Zee was my first POB boat, all of the planking flaws were covered up with wood filler and paint. This would be my first true test in this construction method. What you see is what I built for better or worse.

This build was started in October 2010 and I have only now decided in May 2013, to post my build log. I was reluctant to do so because compared to the others members who post comments regularly and have submitted their many build logs, I am but a beginner. I have knowing or unknowingly made many errors, omissions, and mistakes. It would be like hanging out my dirty laundry. But after some prodding by some of the members, I agreed to post my build if anything to show the error of my ways to anyone who wants to follow a slooow moving project.

I had a choice of the Mamoli or the Model Shipway kit. After a little research I discovered Robert Hunt’s Practicum (http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/) and thought this is just perfect for me. Having struggled through the minimal instructions of the Norwegian translation for the Zwarte Zee and the simplistic instructions translated from the Italian for the Evergreen, and after reading the free sample Chapter 1 with its highly detailed instructions and detailed photographs, I was easily convinced to purchase Robert’s practicum. There I found that the practicum was based on the Mamoli kit, so I chose that kit to build. To be fair, Mr. Hunt did state that his practicum could also be used for the Model Shipway kit. The practicum was written to both supplement and enhance the original kit instructions or to kitbash the project. Because the “journey” to me is the purpose of building a model, rather than the destination, the final model, I chose to build the kitbash and plunked down my money:

• Basic kit - ~$240
• Robert Hunt’s Practicum (http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/) - $150
• Harold Hahn’s plans ¼” scale - $45
• Reduce the Hahn plans 74% to match the kit’s 3/16” scale (1:64) - ~$25
• Hobbymill Wood Package (http://www.hobbymillusa.com/) - $210

This not a cheap build/modification. This does not include the tools that I accumulated and still am accumulating for this project. Hell, it’s a hobby, so it’s OK, that and the fact that I just retired and am a bachelor.

A kitbash goes beyond what the basic kit instructs to make the model more interesting, challenging, and pleasing. In this case Mr. Hunt’s practicum is based on the model Harold Hahn, a master model builder, built using plans he created based directly from the original British Admiralty drawings. Although this is an American ship, it was captured by the British and it is from them we can thank for having the historical drawings and the name Rattlesnake. In this model Mr. Hahn used direct woods to create the colors of the ship. Therefore in keeping true the Hahn model, the practicum substitutes the basic kit wood with a wood package purchased separately from Hobbymill (http://www.hobbymillusa.com/); and has you purchase the Harold Hahn copyrighted plans which Robert is basing his kitbashing modifications. Since Mr. Hahn built his model in ¼” scale, the plans have to reduce to match the kit scale of 3/16” (1:64). Your ordinary office copy won’t do the trick due to the size of the sheets. You need a large copier and one that can do reductions, specifically 74%, the kind found at a large stationary store, graphics, or engineering firm.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:23pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

CHAPTER 1
A New Stem
The very first thing to do was replace the stem. Because the original stem was part of the bulkhead-keel, it will have to be cut off at the rabbet line. Using the reduced Hahn plans, I made another copy of just the stem area using a regular copier on 8½ x 11” paper. Using that copy, I made a template which I rubber cemented to boxwood and cut out using an old Dremel Deluxe Moto-SH jig saw that I bought in the late 70’s for the Zwarte Zee kit I mentioned earlier. It’s not a great saw, but it’s the only jig saw I have. One day I will replace it.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:24pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

After cleaning the edges and test fitting the pieces, looking for gaps, etc. the edges were darkened with artist charcoal to simulate tar chalking. The pieces were then glued together using another uncut copy of the stem as a template. Now the stem looks like what the shipwright would have seen when they completed the stem on the actual ship.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:25pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

As Mr. Hunt points out, if I were to place my new stem on top the kit’s plan they don’t exactly match. Not only that, the kit’s figurehead won’t fit either but that’s OK because I jumped in with both feet on this build which means I will be carving a new figurehead from scratch when the time comes.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:26pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

Building the Framework
The plywood Bulkhead-keel comes in two pieces and does not fit cleanly. So after cleaning, sanding, and squaring, the two pieces are glued together with Weldbond wood glue.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:28pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

Once the bulkhead-keel was glued solid, I transferred the rabbet lines to it using a copy of the Hahn plan as a template

The next step is to finally remove the stem, stern post, and keel from the kit supplied bulkhead-keel along the rabbet line. Because the keel and stem were removed, creating the rabbet was fairly easy as there was no resulting “notch” just a narrowing of the plywood. When the new keel, stem and stern post are attached the rabbet notch line will be back.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:29pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

Assembling the Bulkheads
To ensure that the bulkheads are perpendicular to the bulkhead-keel, I used heavy angle plates and square bar stock (wrapped in plastic to protect it from rust).

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:30pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

Mr. Hunt cautions the builder to make sure that the bulkheads do NOT exceed the bearding line because it may cause high or low areas in the planking. I tried to keep this in mind, but may not have been as successful as I thought as I did have some of those problems.

Jonathan G

Tue May 21 2013, 06:31pm

Registered Member #4155

Joined: Thu Mar 14 2013, 09:01pm
Posts: 875

False Deck

Once more Mr. Hunt cautions the builder to make sure that the bulkheads don’t have any high or low spots where the false deck is to be installed. Again I tried to keep this in mind, but may not have been as successful as I thought as I did have some problems in this area as well later on.
The false deck is a bugger to put on due to the curvature of the deck structure and false ribs. It just doesn’t drop on the bulkheads. You have push, twist, bend, and pray it doesn’t snap. If it doesn’t feel right taking it off is as much a pain as it was putting it on. But once on, I glued it tight and didn’t spare the glue. Any excess would only show under the deck where it wouldn’t be seen.